Re: Allen bolts in CV joints, Help! (archive)

I'm doing the same thing w/my car. But I didn't have problems with the ujoint bolts- I soaked every nut down w/ wd40 or Wurth rost off well. Then I used a pick to thoroughly clean the bolt holes. I went to snap-on and got an extra long allen bolt socket, so I don't have to fight the boot all the time. I turn the nut with a snap-on combo wrench, instead of turning the bolt. Both sides went ok, but, if your allen bolts are shot, I would use a pair of straight needle nose vice grips on the bolt end. By soaking the nut w/ goop, you can probably break it loose with a wrench. Ok on the rear nut, I found a source- old Clymer manual (great factory pics, not so great instructions) says rear nut is 217 ftlbs!!! That would make it the tightest nut on the car!!! I used a 3 foot lead pipe, 1" in dia. over a Craftsman 1/2" long ratchet. So I've got probably 4 1/2 feet of leverage. And the nut broke free ok- after wetting it down for several days w/ stuff. Now, how to get those bearings out?? Please see my other post- all input appreciated.Well, now I've done it. I am taking apart the rear subframe assembly on the tii, and I stripped the allen bolts on a couple of those bolts that hold the half shaft/CV joint thing to the hub assembly. I cannot believe I am the only one who ever did this... is there anything I can do to get them out? Any tips?
Also, is there a trick to getting the big 36 mm nut off the axle end, that is without putting the whole thing back together for leverage?

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