Re: Allen bolts in CV joints, Help! (archive)

Oh yeah, I had to prevent the drive shaft from turning with a pickle fork-type ball joint separator wedged into the rear cross member. If your assy. is out of the car...uh,dunno. sorry... You'd have to keep the flange end from turning somehow. Fun.I'm doing the same thing w/my car. But I didn't have problems with the ujoint bolts- I soaked every nut down w/ wd40 or Wurth rost off well. Then I used a pick to thoroughly clean the bolt holes. I went to snap-on and got an extra long allen bolt socket, so I don't have to fight the boot all the time. I turn the nut with a snap-on combo wrench, instead of turning the bolt. Both sides went ok, but, if your allen bolts are shot, I would use a pair of straight needle nose vice grips on the bolt end. By soaking the nut w/ goop, you can probably break it loose with a wrench. Ok on the rear nut, I found a source- old Clymer manual (great factory pics, not so great instructions) says rear nut is 217 ftlbs!!! That would make it the tightest nut on the car!!! I used a 3 foot lead pipe, 1" in dia. over a Craftsman 1/2" long ratchet. So I've got probably 4 1/2 feet of leverage. And the nut broke free ok- after wetting it down for several days w/ stuff. Now, how to get those bearings out?? Please see my other post- all input appreciated.Well, now I've done it. I am taking apart the rear subframe assembly on the tii, and I stripped the allen bolts on a couple of those bolts that hold the half shaft/CV joint thing to the hub assembly. I cannot believe I am the only one who ever did this... is there anything I can do to get them out? Any tips?
Also, is there a trick to getting the big 36 mm nut off the axle end, that is without putting the whole thing back together for leverage?

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