remove brake drum.
remove the allen head bolts holding the outer CV joint to the stub axle. These should be a 7mm allen bit. If all you have are allen wrenches - go to the store and get hex bits for your ratchet NOW!
Take your 2 or 3 arm puller and remove the hub from the splines of the stub axle. This should be a fairly easy task free of drama or sudden "popping". Once the hub is off - put it somewhere safe until you have a chance to clean it.
At this point you might chose to remove the brake shoes and unhook the handbrake cable.I suppose it can be done with them on - but I like the extra room.
Take the 36mm nut - and install it backwards on the threads of the axle so that it is FLUSH with the face of the shaft. Now, whack it a few good times with a PLASTIC mallet, to push it through and out of the trailing arm. You may find that it gets a bit stuck halfway out - but don't panic - just get your brass punch and use it to push it all the way through and out. It's a good idea to have something soft on the floor waiting for it - as it tends to drop out - and you DON'T want to damage it!
Once the stub axle and hub are off - use a sharp tool to pry out the inner and outer oil seals. I use a cotter pin extractor tool - which has a screwdriver-like handle - and a 90 degree bent pointy tip - works great - and safer than the ole' screwdriver technique! Once the seals are out - you're faced with the bearings, spacer tube and possible shims. The spacer tube is between the bearings and can be used to drive out the inner bearing.
Take your finger and reach inside the bearing. You'll notice that the spacer tube behind the bearing is easily moved off center. While it's off center - it presents a nice place to hit for the brass punch. alternate sides of your hits - so that you drive the bearing out evenly. Make SURE not to damage either the tube - OR the inner surface of the trailing arm. Once the inner bearing pops out - check for any shims. On mine - the shim was behind the outer bearing - but it could be either. Once the inner bearing is out - get your handy dandy bearing drift tool - and find a disk that's just a tad smaller in diameter than the outer race of the bearing. (Use the removed inner one as a gauge). Get under the car - and hammer out the outboard bearing from the back side.
Take a break now - and clean the hub, stub axle, CV joint, allen bolts, spacer tube and shim with brakleen or similar solvent. I painted the hub and clearcoated the bolts for reinstallation - but I'm funny that way.
A few key notes:
If there's a shim - reinstall it in the exact place from whence it came
Don't mix up left and right sides. Do one wheel at a time.
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal (I hate reading that, don't you?) Clean even new bearings and pack them with fresh grease.
Using the bearing drift - hit the bearings in squarely in until the tone of the tap changes to a dull "clank" sound. THAT's when you know it's seated squarely on it's seating surface.
Secure the 36mm castle nut to 317 ft lbs. (!!!) That's a TON of torque - and may require a big ole' cheater bar. install NEW cotter pin - and you're done.
The torque is extremely important. I once had a (well, let's just say "inexperienced") local rural mechanic install these a few years back on another car. 3 days later - I had my left rear wheel PASS me at 65 mph and sail off into a corn field. The wheel took the hub, drum, and lug nuts with it! I am damn lucky it didn't go through the windshield of an oncoming car. This is real stuff guys - and not to be taken lightly. Be safe, use your noggin, and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
If you feel yourself getting frustrated, take a break, smoke a cigarette, go taunt the neighbor's kids, pour some coffee, do whatever it takes to relax - then go back to the job. Frustration and impatience WILL cause injuries!
I just quit my 2 pack a day smoking habit last week - so the neighbor's kids are on borrowed time now! heh! ;-)
Next installment: trailing arms, springs, axle carrier mounts, ad nauseum!
Maximillian Importing Co