The complete automotive resource for buyers, sellers, and owners like you.
Car, Truck and SUV Forums at Roadfly
+ Bentley Forums
+ BMW Forums
+ Cadillac Forums
+ Chevrolet Forums
+ Ferrari Forums
+ Jaguar Forums
+ Lamborghini Forums
+ Lotus Forums
+ Mercedes-Benz Forums
+ Maserati Forums
+ MINI Forums
+ Porsche Forums
+ General Discussion
+ Marketplace Forums
where d'ya get a 317lbf (!) torque wrench? nt (archive)

[ Follow Ups ] [ 2002 Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]

Posted by Colin on June 28, 2001 at 07:05:22:

In Reply to: rear wheel bearing R&R pt. I posted by Paul (at Maximill...) TECH!!! on June 27, 2001 at 12:28:19:


OK - so maybe I WAS lucky - but the 36mm axle nuts came off very easily indeed. Now....assuming that you've been able to remove them without damaging the stub axle or yourself - here's how to proceed:

remove brake drum.

remove the allen head bolts holding the outer CV joint to the stub axle. These should be a 7mm allen bit. If all you have are allen wrenches - go to the store and get hex bits for your ratchet NOW!

Take your 2 or 3 arm puller and remove the hub from the splines of the stub axle. This should be a fairly easy task free of drama or sudden "popping". Once the hub is off - put it somewhere safe until you have a chance to clean it.

At this point you might chose to remove the brake shoes and unhook the handbrake cable.I suppose it can be done with them on - but I like the extra room.

Take the 36mm nut - and install it backwards on the threads of the axle so that it is FLUSH with the face of the shaft. Now, whack it a few good times with a PLASTIC mallet, to push it through and out of the trailing arm. You may find that it gets a bit stuck halfway out - but don't panic - just get your brass punch and use it to push it all the way through and out. It's a good idea to have something soft on the floor waiting for it - as it tends to drop out - and you DON'T want to damage it!

Once the stub axle and hub are off - use a sharp tool to pry out the inner and outer oil seals. I use a cotter pin extractor tool - which has a screwdriver-like handle - and a 90 degree bent pointy tip - works great - and safer than the ole' screwdriver technique! Once the seals are out - you're faced with the bearings, spacer tube and possible shims. The spacer tube is between the bearings and can be used to drive out the inner bearing.

Heres how:

Take your finger and reach inside the bearing. You'll notice that the spacer tube behind the bearing is easily moved off center. While it's off center - it presents a nice place to hit for the brass punch. alternate sides of your hits - so that you drive the bearing out evenly. Make SURE not to damage either the tube - OR the inner surface of the trailing arm. Once the inner bearing pops out - check for any shims. On mine - the shim was behind the outer bearing - but it could be either. Once the inner bearing is out - get your handy dandy bearing drift tool - and find a disk that's just a tad smaller in diameter than the outer race of the bearing. (Use the removed inner one as a gauge). Get under the car - and hammer out the outboard bearing from the back side.

Take a break now - and clean the hub, stub axle, CV joint, allen bolts, spacer tube and shim with brakleen or similar solvent. I painted the hub and clearcoated the bolts for reinstallation - but I'm funny that way.

A few key notes:

If there's a shim - reinstall it in the exact place from whence it came

Don't mix up left and right sides. Do one wheel at a time.

Reinstallation is the reverse of removal (I hate reading that, don't you?) Clean even new bearings and pack them with fresh grease.

Using the bearing drift - hit the bearings in squarely in until the tone of the tap changes to a dull "clank" sound. THAT's when you know it's seated squarely on it's seating surface.

Secure the 36mm castle nut to 317 ft lbs. (!!!) That's a TON of torque - and may require a big ole' cheater bar. install NEW cotter pin - and you're done.

The torque is extremely important. I once had a (well, let's just say "inexperienced") local rural mechanic install these a few years back on another car. 3 days later - I had my left rear wheel PASS me at 65 mph and sail off into a corn field. The wheel took the hub, drum, and lug nuts with it! I am damn lucky it didn't go through the windshield of an oncoming car. This is real stuff guys - and not to be taken lightly. Be safe, use your noggin, and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!

If you feel yourself getting frustrated, take a break, smoke a cigarette, go taunt the neighbor's kids, pour some coffee, do whatever it takes to relax - then go back to the job. Frustration and impatience WILL cause injuries!

I just quit my 2 pack a day smoking habit last week - so the neighbor's kids are on borrowed time now! heh! ;-)

Next installment: trailing arms, springs, axle carrier mounts, ad nauseum!

Paul
Maximillian Importing Co





Follow Ups:



[ Follow Ups ] [ 2002 Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]
Questions, comments, or problems, please visit the Roadfly help desk.
Roadfly.com Logo © 1997 - 2016 Jump Internet Inc. All rights reserved.