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Re: Front Rotor replacement on 97 528i - Help! (archive)

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Posted by BMW Head on January 09, 1999 at 17:15:54:

In Reply to: Front Rotor replacement on 97 528i - Help! posted by Will on January 09, 1999 at 15:57:37:

Hi, well all the 'manuals' including Chilton
and Haynes have procedures for this process,
oh including Bentley's book (recommended
over the others). But here I go...

0.5 Unscrew brake fluid resevoir, put rag over it.
0.6 Make sure key is out of car, window unrolled.
1. Put car up on blocks or mini-tree stands.
2. Take tires off, front in your case.
3. Take a look at how things are situated.
4. Do ONE side at a time!
5. Compress caliper by 'prying' caliper away from
the outside pad, firmly yet gently. This
may take 5-10 seconds. Remember, it is slow.
6. Take off retaining clip for outside pad
by using screwdriver between rotor and clip
pushing in the middle of the clip toward
the outer diameter of the rotor edge.
7. Pop off the cover caps on the caliper
that holds the caliper to the caliper bracket.
8. With a allen-socket (hand torque handle
or the neumatic air type I have) undo the
two bolts (within bolt boots) that hold the
caliper to the caliper bracket.
9. Remove the caliper and pads from the rotor
and caliper bracket. If you can, avoid
letting it hang by the fluid hose.

NOTE: If you are replacing pads, this is the
the time to remove any sensor, take the pads
out and toss, compress the cyclinder of the
caliper with channel lock pliers. Put the
pads in later when you have replaced the
caliper bracket and rotor.

9.5 Remove the Caliper bracket, using an air
impact tool. I think it is an 18 mm or
so, and using a swivel socket is very helpful
here. You can move the stearing if you have
the car on a lift making life very easy
or if you have the car up on all 4 corners
on blocks or mini-tree stands.
10. Take an impact driver (very preferred over
a standard allen wrench), and remove the
alignment allen bolt from the rotor.
11. Remove the rotor, you may have to 'pound'
on it a bit for the back rotors, fronts
usually come right off. Dont' worry about
damaging the rotor since you are replacing it.
Use moderate force if you must, I spray with
BG Free-It or equivalent penetrating oil
as soon as I have the wheels off, including
the allen nut. It always helps (sorry for
the after-the-fact mention here, just forgot).
12. Recycle the rotor, there is a bunch of metal
there and someday it may be back on a car.
13. Clean off the new rotor, using some type
of brake cleaner. Basically just remove
what BMW or other rotor makers (ATE usually
is the manufacture of the rotor) put on there
to fight rust during shipping and such.
14. Put rotor back on the hub, align with align-
ment hole and screw in the alignment screw.
15-20 NM is all you have to do here, I would
just make it snug. It doesn't have to be
cranked since this is only to help the rotor
get aligned to the hub, nothing more or less.
15. Go backwards in replacing all the parts
making sure that things that where snug
get put back on snug and those the are
'cranked' are put back on cranked. BMW does
have a torque book, yet I have not used
it and have had good luck with just paying
attention. The only exception is I always
use the spec values for the lug nuts on the
rims. No warped rotors either to replace
as a result.

Hope this helps! You are liable for anything
you screw up, regardless of what I have outlined
here or not. If you follow what I have said
(and what I have not said, and what other people
have said) you will have a great
driving experience. Happy New Year!

\t

: A couple weeks ago I posted a message about squeeling brakes after I had changed my pads to the Repco Deluxe.

: Still squeeling, in fact worse than before!! so I'm thinking about replacing the front rotors...

: Does anyone know how to do this? Replacing the pads was really easy, but looks like the whole brake caliper needs to come off for the rotors? Do the rotor just come off or is there something holding it in place?

: Thanking in advance,
: Will




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