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In Reply to: Re:E-32 seat R&R posted by Callan on July 17, 1999 at 11:38:02:
Callan's post is worth printing and saving. I got in a hurry and started before reading his post and bent the sheet metal making a short job long. I had a twisted seat bottom that added to the fun. Do not try alone if you have physial limitations! I will try to do a detailed post this week on many don'ts and a few do's since the kids are waking up now and the wife is at work.
: You don't have to remove the front seats for all the cable problems on the 5&7 series. Some can be handled from under the bottom cushion and one other works by removing the side trim on the outer side and cutting into the cable that way.
: If however you must remove the front seats here is one way to do it.
: First remove the headrest for easier R&R. Pull it all the way out of the upper backrest.
: There are only 2 seat track bolts in the back. the front portion is hooked into the floor with welded hooks that you have to pivot the seat out of and then over to clear.[yeah, about as goofy as it sounds!]
: On a good day you just tilt it forward and you're off. On a bad day you bend the sheet metal of the seat track enough to make it rough going off and impossible to re-install without filing and bending the slot for the hooks on the seat track back into shape[Now we're having fun!]
: Put the seat into the highest seat bottom position it will go to allow for more room under it. Also run the seat forward enough to allow access to the 2 Torx bolts in the back for R&R.
: Disconnect all the control unit plugs you can get to if you are working on the Drivers seat from the front after removing the black plastic cover.
: Now, with a helper, tilt the seat forward once you have removed the 2 back seat track bolts so that it's leaning into the dash area solely anchored still by those goofy floor mounted hooks.
: Use 2 blocks of wood or a patient helper to keep the seat tilted while you disconnect the remaining connections for the control unit and also the pin that holds the tensioner for the seat belt retractor cable into the seat frame.
: You will see a small pulley set-up with a cable coming out of the floor and it attaches to the seat with a clip-pin. Let the cable go back to the pulley, it won't go too far once you've disconnected it. Remove the large Torx bolt holding the end of the seat belt onto the frame. I usually use a 3/8" impact here with the right bit[#50 I think, or #45?] Any other cable or wiring plugs get disconnected. You should be able to leave the control in place but if you have to remove it there should only be 2 screws under the unit through the frame holding it in.
: Now for the tricky part, push the seat further forward and use a light to watch the slots in the seat track allow clearance with those hooks for seat liftoff. on most days you get one loose and the other side hangs up, but jiggle things until both sides come free and lift the seat up and out of the car. Try to avoid scraping the sill moulding by protecting it with masking tape or a soft towel. Also watch the paint on the "B" pillar and the door panel as you are exiting the car with the seat.
: Re-install in reverse order, add some grease to the 2 floor hooks and look at the slots of the seat track for any damage from yours or previous R&R. Bang the sheet metal straight with a punch if needed and file any burrs away. You want this portion to go as smooth as possible.
: Right side seats don't have the control units so life is simpler.
: Lastly, you can remove the seat and lay it back torward the rear seat inside the car if you want to work on it inside the car. This method requires sharp eyes and lots of attention to the interior trim to protect from scratches.
: While I removed many seats by myself don't be afraid to ask for help, particularly in the stage where you disconnect the torx bolt for the seat belt and the cable for it too. One false move here and your back lets you know about it!
: Good luck Gale!
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