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Re: replacing fuel pump (archive)

[ Follow Ups ] [ 3-series (E21) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]

Posted by Tom Knowles on July 01, 2000 at 16:55:26:

In Reply to: replacing fuel pump posted by Salvatore on June 30, 2000 at 12:53:13:

Be first aware that any work under the car is dangerous..be sure it is chocked, blocked on level ground and properly settled onto stands. Do NOT get under the car till your sure it won't fall on you. I take no responsibility for this following advice, if your car kills you, don't come back to haunt me.

Secondly, you will need a variety of tools and parts..see the following.

Thirdly, are you SURE you need a pump? If you are certain you do, continue:

The pump is in the vicinity of the right rear seat well, under the floor and ahead of the right side half-shaft. The right side is determined by the right as if you were sitting in the car.

Make sure the ignition switch is "off". It is best to not have a "plumb-full" tank, but it doesn't have to be empty, either. There are two wires going to it that have 8mm nuts holding them to the terminals. Make note of which one goes where.(I'm not sure if it matters, but just to be safe, always put things back like they came off..unless it was wrong to begin with! ) There are two or three hoses connected as well, with a couple of factory clamps. The best way to remove the clamps is to break them off and replace with worm drive clamps. If any of the rubber tubing is cracked an dried, replace it. The main feed line is a "banjo" fitting with a big bolt head in the center of it. I think its a 12 or 13mm. This will have to come off, too. You will need a pair of new copper gaskets for this whenever it goes back on since there is about 90 psi of pressure on the fuel here. (this IS a 320, right??) If it "aint't perfek", you'll have a dangerous situation at hand!

The pump is mounted in brackets (a clamping arrangement) that is supported in two rubber isolators that have 10mm nuts on either end of each. They are usually stuck with rust and dirt and will break..be sure you have new ones on hand. The pump and bracket and accumulator and some connecting tubeing will come off as a sub-assembly. Reassembly is obviously to put it back like it was. If you're unsure, make notes as you disassemble.

Before you un-jack the car, check your work by cranking the engine over. If it starts, fine, but it probably will not as the new pump will take a few seconds to fill the lines up to the engine. Crawl back under and look for wet spots. Do not check with a cigarette lighter! (SORRY!)

Good luck

TOM


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