Re: Tie rod ends (archive)

1) I did not find any wear on my factory original damper @ 62k miles. Although I went ahead and installed a new one in just for kicks, I don't think this item even sees any degree of stress at all.

2) To change rod ends, autozone rents the tie rod puller. I'd avoid those pickle forks if possible. Also, measure out how far the old tie rod is screwed into the idler shaft, and if the new tie rod can be installed in the exact position, there won't be any need for alignment. Changing out tie rod ends are fairly straightforward and darn pretty easy, relatively speaking.

3) Also, try to push the rod (that the tie rod's attached to) in and pull the rod out of the steering rack arm. If it moves in / out from the inner socket&ball, then the inner shaft needs to be replaced as well. If this shaft needs replacing, it gets difficult in terms of locating the right tool - a 32mm open end wrench w/ 7mm thin wall width - to unscrew it out of the steering rack arm. It's probably easier to locate a 1-1/4" crow's feet wrench than to locate an open end wrench in that size. Me, I used a pipe wrench on the outer socket joint and muscled the old part out. If you are at this stage, where the shaft is getting wrenched out, to reduce any bending moment induced on the steering rack, be sure the rack is steered / turned as far into the body as can.

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