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More ideas on the HVAC (archive)
[ Follow Ups ] [ 7-series (E23) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]
Posted by Grant on November 18, 2000 at 09:45:14:

In Reply to: Grant - Some HVAC notes...(long) posted by Aaron on November 18, 2000 at 09:36:59:


Grant,
I did the test you suggested, it seems to work OK except I cant get air out of the face or floor vents no matter what I do. The temp wheel works, because when I turn it up, the air gets hot, and more of it...turn it down, the air gets cooler & eventually (its 20 degrees here today!) gets cut off all together -- although I can still hear the fan running. Only thru the defrost though! I can also verify the cowl flaps are operating...they open & close with the on/off fan switch. I talked to Bimmerworld - they quoted $155 for a new pump, which is pretty good. But they warned if the system isnt right to begin with, that id burn the pump up within an hour. So maybe you should send me the HVAC pages! Another note: Last summer the air cond. worked OK --it was cool, but more importantly -- the face vents worked! But towards the end of summer...it quit blowing out of the face vents! I could hear it running & feel it was cool, but all the flaps were closed! So, did the check valve being in backwards burn up the pump?? and thats why it quit, because it was kind of gradual...Just to check, the blue side of the vavle should be away from the engine- correct? THis sounds like a logical explaination to me...what do you think? THis was way too long! Thanks a million!

The check valve should be installed to prevent the pump from "sucking" air out of the intake manifold.

It is hard to make a final determination on your problem but it sounds like you have a leak in a hose or switching valve or you have a defective switching valve. The control valve for the face vents may be getting a signal from the controller but it may not be working, or leaking and can not open the face vents.


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