Re: Where to start diagnosing SLS (archive)

Kevin,
It sounds like you have two problems. First, electrical because you shouldn't have to jump the relay, secondly the hydrylics. THe relay is a 40 Amp relay, but for diagnostic purposes you can use a 30Amp. The limit switch under the car should be connected to the rod which is attached to the sway bar. Try changing a realy first, and if that doesn't start the pump, check the limit switch. You can email me direct, or if you want to place it all on the board, thats fine too. I'll try to check more often, I've been distracted with work.

As for the pump, you need to determine if you have an external or internal leak. Check your fluid level in the resovoir. If the level is at least at the low mark, you're ok to test further. If the level is below that, you have an external leak or ruptured accumulators. Check all connections and the rear shocks themselves for leaks and tighten accordingly. If there are no external leaks and the fluid level is up, then you have an internal leak in the high pressure area of the pump, or an electrical signal problem telling the valve to open. The pump can be completly rebuild for $600 and the accumulators when bad, and they all go bad after 15 years, just like the brake accumulator goes bad, can be replaced for about $95 each. That's about the whole downside and you should be set for another 15 years. I've got a complete set of spares for diagnostic purposes, so if you need to test parts, I can send you the distributon block with the low pressure switch on it and a limit switch to test your elecricals. Start here and get back to me if you want some help. steve

Here is the story, when I picked the "Plum" up in PA it was low ridin in the back, we jumpered the relay contacts and raised the car back to normal, and it stayed up for a couple of weeks but now it is drooping again!

I jumper the relay now and the pump runs it's little heart out, but the car does not raise at all. Where do I start?

Thanx
Kevin

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