See if they will reimburse you for having it reinstalled by a machine shop.

Then remove the arm and take it to a shop w/ a press. make SURE that they use mandrels that will NOT damage the bushing outter shells when pressing them. I use 3/4" drive sockets as mandrels to press the bushings in/out, and I have never damaged one.

Have the tech press it back out the way it went in, then turn it for proper alignment after inspecting the rubber for damage in service, and press it back in. Preheating the big end of the arm with a propane torch to a "hot to the touch" temperature first w/o damaging the rubber, will make removal easier and lessen the chance of damage to the bushing.

You could apply a little locktite on the sleeve or arm. It will initially act as a lubricant to reduce the force needed to reinstall, then as an adhesive when it cures. If the bushing doesn't take at least 1000 pounds to install, get a new one.

Oh, yes, when removing the ball joint from the strut, use a fulcrum type press, NOT a pickle fork. Forks almost always damage the boot, and can damage the ball joint itself and make the joint unsafe for further use. I NEVER reuse any such joint removed by a fork since I've seen them come apart in service later. They are quick if you're replacing the joint anyway, but I hate beating on any suspension on a BMW. A 3/4 ton truck part, sure, but NOT a BMW. Safety First as usual.

Bob

any advice here ........? i just found out that my passenger side bushing was installed backwards.........i had bought them from bavarian autosport in new hampshire ......should i just replace the passenger side or change both sides..?...they were 750 bushings that were milled down to fit the 635
the drivers side is fine as it was installed correctly
thank you