Re: Newbie purchase questions (archive)

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For the dead window switches, check position of the breaker on the dash panel. This can de-activate all windows and sunroof.

I'm not sure if this feature is on the 1982 633, but definately on the later versions of the 635. Breaker (on later cars at any rate)is an unmarked rectangular push button immediately to the left of the radio fade control. Worth a try.

As you are new to this model, suggest checking out the site below. It provides the general specifications for each build year. Note that 1981/1982 BUILD YEAR is the key changeover to the newer suspension design (E12 to E28). Not sure which you are looking at, as I think the updated models were imported to NA after about 1984 or so.

From your description, car doesn't sound too bad, and price is certainly reasonable. For things to look for on this model, try searching the list archives on "purchase advise" or "buying advise". You have already hit the biggest concerns, which are rust, straight body, rust, interior condition, rust, functioning of electrical accessories, and rust. For rust areas, check front fenders, around sunroof, rear fender areas, strut tower area, rockers, around tail light assembly, etc. Standard Karmann/BMW stuff, and certainly familiar ground given your 2002 experience. The problem is that the body spares can be very expensive for the six series, and difficult to find at wreckers.

I don't think the clutch should be a big deal to repair, but I imagine the exhaust system will have to be removed (worth replacing?), you will want to check condition on the driveshaft bearings, guibo, etc. while doing this job.

I assume with the disfunctional clutch, you can't check condition of front suspension with a road test. Figure on it needing attention, thrust bushings in particular.

Another cost you may have is upgrade of tires/wheels from the metric sized TRX to 15", 16" or 17" rims and tires. Seems to cost about $1000 or more for this trick.

Also, if the car starts, suggest running at idle until the auxilary fan system kicks in. Also, function test air conditioning and heater. These systems give some fairly common problems, some of which are difficult to repair.

If possible, either review the owners manual carefully or take a buddy familiar with all the electrical accessories in order to function test them. I found them a little daunting at first, and they can often give problems. Most repairs on these can be DIY, but they are annoying to track down.

Have a possible deal in the works for an '82 U.S. spec
633 with 5spd. Body is straight, interior is fine, no
exxon Valdeze style leaks, no missing trim, bad paint.

Here is the kicker; dead clutch.
Pedle doesn't "stick", no metallic grind noise, just doesn't engage.
Between that and what appears to be a dead switch panel for the main windows, is it worth "risking" for $1000?

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