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Re: more rust (long msg) (archive)

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Posted by Bruno on May 27, 1999 at 09:18:11:

In Reply to: more rust posted by cbeers on May 27, 1999 at 08:44:22:

Chris;
I don't know how you will get away from truly getting rid of the the rust properly without ridding yourself of the rust as best you can.
However, there are products that are deemed to prevent or slow down the rusting process. POR 15 has been mentioned before so I won't repeat.

I was in another forum (I also have a 72 Dodge Power Wagon, don't ask) and came across this posting that is a commercial msg. But I copied it in here since I had never heard of this product and it atleast 'seems' to offer some advantages and an alternative to POR. I don't have any first hand experience with this stuff;


Beginning of copied msg --

Yes, there is an alternative and it is just slightly less expensive.

I sell the product twice per year at the Spring and Fall Carlisle and Hershey (PA) swap meets. And the product is superior to POR 15.

This product is PM, Inc., Master Coat series of paints. It will do everything POR will do and it will give you added protection.

PM (Pat Metheny) once worked for POR and encouraged them to change their formula. After running into a dead end, he decided to bring it out himself.

Though Pat offers several products, the two you would be most interested in are his (1) rust sealer and (2) his frame paint. First the rust sealer:

Master Coat Silver (MCS) is a urethane interstate bridge paint forulated for automobiles. Gov't DOT specifications for the paint on bridges says that the paint should last on bridges for 15 years without allowing re-emergence of old rust or allowing wet salty water to break down the paint from outside. PM claims his paint will exceed this though I have no way to verify this since he has not been in business that long. MCS can be painted on with a foam rubber brush or sprayed. However, we do not recommend spraying to folks at the show since we do not know to whom we are speaking. The paint is difficult to remove from skin (about 10 days average) and there was a person who sprayed it a couple of years ago who did not used a charcoal filter respirator. He did some damage to his lungs.

Application for the silver is two coats minimum. This paint has a lot of ground aluminum powder which will fall to the walls and bottom of rust holes. The second applications tends to level the paint leaving no brush marks (with a foam brush). Four hour drying is required. If used on sheet metal, you may prime over this rust sealer within four hours. Prior to doing anything, make sure you get off all rust scale with either a wire brush or blasting. The silver dries out extremely hard becoming chip resistant. Consequently, it is wonderful to use on both sides of bare sheet metal about one inch around holes where you are re-installing door handles, trim, clips, rocker panels, headlight lenses, etc. These are areas prone for resumption of rust from the vibration chipping away regular paint. Won't happen with MCS. You can use MCS as a gas tank sealer. (Rotate broken windshield glass inside tank for a good half-hour [attach tank to front of cement mixer], flush well with alcohol or paint thinner, pour in quart of MCS, rotate 2-3 minutes, empty back into can, let dry and repeat. Then paint outside of tank with remainder. Dries out looking like fresh galvanized metal.

Drying time between coats is 4 hours though faster in humid and wet weather. You should get your primer on within 48 hours. If you wait as long as seven days the paint will totally cure and it can reject a primer after that point requiring you to scuff the paint with 220 grit prior to your primer. You can put your top coat on anytime later.

As I said, the paint is extremely chip resistant. You can run an exacto knife over it after curing and you will not be able to see where the blade was. The paint allows absolutely no passage of water or air thereby not allowing old rust to resume.

The Master Coat Frame (MCF) paint is similar to POR except customers who have used both tell me they like this one better. Reason? MCF does not powder up after drying like POR does. Both MCF and POR are UV-sensitive. However, MCF requires sitting in direct sunlight to be UV-sensitive. Only their gloss black is UV-S and this does not apply to their satin finish. POR will flatten out in short time, sun or not. If you put MCF on top of MCS, the vehicle will look like it is brand new. The leveling characteristics of MCS will really be understood once you place MCF on top. Both paints used together on a frame should give over 20 years protection from salt and re-emergence of any old rust.

MasterCoat can be mail ordered from Halon Marketing, USA, Inc. at 800 343-9763. Because he travels to car shows each weekend, call midweek and ask for Saul Smiler. He probably has a tech sheet he can fax or mail. Cost is $25 per quart, about $3-5 less than POR. Expensive? Yes, until you understand you are buying for yourself particularly if you live up north. Mention my name (Dennis Batson) to Saul and he may give you the show price ($22) + UPS. One quart is enough for 2 coats on your frame.

Incidentally, if you ever have seen A&E's documentary on the sinking of the Andrea Doria, you have met PM. He was a 12-year old passenger at the time and he was interviewed extensively during the making of this documentary.

: I have some small rust bubbles appearing on the front and bottom edges of the doors. When I was into muscle cars (as a lad) where rust was given, we used to use a jelly that turned rust black. It seemed to be mildly effective. What the current method (and hopefully better) to stop it from spreading. I don't feel like grinding, filling and painting? Would appreciate any thoughts.

:
: Chris
: '85 535i

: PS - Isn't the "rust" along the metal edge of the windows just the usual discoloraion of the plastic insert?




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