In Reply to: water in trunk w/new gaskets? posted by sam smith on January 29, 2001 at 13:07:20:
Prior to installing the new gasket, insure there is no left over adhesive in the trough. If water has been seeping under the old gasket also inspect for rust damage and treat with rust inhibiter. I have used a Wurth product for the gasket adhesive and rust inhibiter.
To install the gasket: apply a coating of adhesive to both the gasket and the mating surface. Allow to dry, then apply a generous amount of adhesive to either the gasket or the mating surface. Immediatley install the gasket to the trunk lip working from the back, down the sides to the bottom. Insure the upper corners are correctly positioned. There is a little small lip of the gasket which should be allowed to hang over the perpendicular edge of the trunk lip.
Once gasket it completely installed close the trunk lid partially. Do not close trunk lid, the pressure will/may cause the gasket to move prior to drying.
I took mine one step further... I purchased a tube of clear silicon fast drying sealant and put a bead around the gasket where it meets the body of the car. I found this to be the secret in my application because I kept getting water under my gasket which would eventually leak into the trunk. By doing this there is no way for the water to get under the trunk.
One last secret... put a generous amount of Vaseline on the upper lip of the newly installed gasket. The Vaseline will allow the gasket to not bind and get malformed by repeated opening and closing of the trunk lid.
Archives are STILL down...
I've got a mildewy smell out of the trunk - and the sound deadening mat between the shocktowers is moist - every time it rains. It'll dry out and go away, but never ceases to come back. I've got a new trunk seal, and new taillight gaskets, and the license plate fasteners don't leak.
Any suggestions? Only thing I can think left to check is that the rear sunroof drain isn't blocked - but I don't know how to get at it to blow compressed air down it. Ideas?