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Re: need help with clutch pedal install... (archive)

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Posted by andyman on July 21, 2001 at 19:44:26:

In Reply to: Re: need help with clutch pedal install... posted by Clyde on July 21, 2001 at 19:39:56:

that's the first time I've heard about the slave pushrod trick. I've done 3 master cylinder changes without that trick, 2 of the times totally successfully. The last time the clutch won't return to the top of the stroke, so I'll give that method a try.

It is possible to bleed the clutch just like a brake system. it worked 2 out of 3 times for me ;-)

OK.. I might have this right but I'd hate do this three times despite the "third times the charm" thing... Trying to install clutch pedal assembly... Should the clutch pedal after install, BEFORE the master is attached, stay at the floor with assistance of the spring? I don't get it - the spring I thought was for help with the return, right? tell me I am wrong... The master pushes free and the system returns w/o the pedal attached... I did replace the pedal bracket (it had broke and been re-welded)with a new one... SO what do I do? When I attached the pedal last time with it staying to the floor, I bled the clutch and it stayed down - didn't return... should I remove the helper spring as the earlier versions work fine w/o them? Help... The car is all back together from a complete overhaul - motor and all, this is the pain that won't let me finish.... Help! Please...

Edward


What you see without the clutch master installed is normal. The "helper" spring is an over-center design that actually pushes in the "down" direction once the pedal is depressed an inch or two; it pushes "up" near the top of the stroke. Re-install your master, and if there's no air in the hydraulic system, you'll re-establish a good pedal.

One minor point: if your clutch pedal bushing is worn badly (no flares at the ends) you may overtighten the through-bolt for the pedals and bind them. If that's the case, back off on the nut until there's some lash in the setup. When I replaced my bushing, I used two bushing segments, and had to find a nut position where there was no binding -- I assured the nut staying where I put it by applying Loctite first.

One last tip: if you've admitted air into the clutch master (disconnected the inlet hose from reservoir), you'll have a tough time establishing a good stiff pedal, because it's almost impossible to purge the air from the system. See the Bentley manual tip on removal of the slave from its mount, and rapidly depressing the push rod and letting it slowly return. You'll have to do this several times, maybe a day or two apart -- in addition to a pressure bleed or a pump-type bleed with an assistant.

Good luck.





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