The complete automotive resource for buyers, sellers, and owners like you.
Car, Truck and SUV Forums at Roadfly
+ Bentley Forums
+ BMW Forums
+ Cadillac Forums
+ Chevrolet Forums
+ Ferrari Forums
+ Jaguar Forums
+ Lamborghini Forums
+ Lotus Forums
+ Mercedes-Benz Forums
+ Maserati Forums
+ MINI Forums
+ Porsche Forums
+ General Discussion
+ Marketplace Forums
Re: Another Question Regarding This (archive)

[ Follow Ups ] [ 5-series (E28) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]

Posted by Mike M on November 11, 2001 at 21:34:06:

In Reply to: Another Question Regarding This posted by Wes on November 11, 2001 at 21:02:04:

I'm changing the bushings in my upper control arms to Paul Gray's urethane ones. I jacked up the car and started taking it apart. I already removed the cotter pin (which was a pain), removed the 22mm bolt that held the ball joint in place. I also removed the sway bar. Now I CAN'T get the ball joint out. I tried hitting the end of it with a hammer, but it won't budge. Is there an easier way to get it out? I also can't get the bolt that goes through the bushing out. The space up there is too tight even with the sway bar removed. How should I go about taking this bolt out? Space if VERY LIMITED! TIA guys.

Wes


Another added point. I was reading the Bavarian Autosport instructions on how to install these things. They said to tighten the bolt that goes through the bushing AFTER LOWERING THE CAR BACK DOWN. First thing about this that confuses me, I can't tighten the bolt without removing the sway bar, and with the sway bar off and the car lowered I can't put the sway bar back on. So how do I go about doing this. My car is also TOO LOW TO GET UNDER to tighten the bolt. I won't be able to get under there. TIA again.

Wes


Wes, in order to separate the ball joint from steering knucle hit both sides of the knuckle simultaneously to shock the joint apart. If this does not work get a tie rod/ ball joint separter. Do not use a pickle fork or you will destroy the boot of the control arm. Another option is to remove the lower control arm from the base of the strut ( 3 - 17mm bolts) and take the upper and lower control arms as a unit.In addition, you must separate the tie rod from the knuckle. In fact this is how i usually renew the bushings - I do both the upper & lower with the upper control arm still attatched to the steering knuckle. My mechanic has no trouble pressing the new bushings in that way. The way I simulate the car being on the ground for proper tightening is to jack up the strut at a suitable point. mike


Follow Ups:



[ Follow Ups ] [ 5-series (E28) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]
Questions, comments, or problems, please visit the Roadfly help desk.
Roadfly.com Logo © 1997 - 2009 Jump Internet Inc. All rights reserved.