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First things first - is there a good way to drain the cooling system ? :) I didnt find any drain plugs anywhere :) I just worked the 3 radiator hoses off and pointed them downward as fast as possible :P
My crank snout looks _ugly_. I managed to get the remainder of the key out of it, but theres gouged metal and smeared metal here and there. The keyway itself looks relatively unscatched, if not a bit too wide. What are the correct physical dimensions of it ?
How does the harmonic balancer "sit" on here ? Is the idea that once the key is in there, you just line up the HB and then push the HB back into the little recess where the crank snout sticks out of the lower timing case cover as far as possible ?
Since my crank snout is pretty ugly, im going to attempt the JBweld + Loctite 638 (or 680, haven't decided yet) + loctite red threadlocker repair. If it works, awesome, if not, then i've got to replace all these parts anyhow :(
So one thing im worried about is getting extra JBweld/loctite on other nearby places...should i put some sort of sealing compound on the _back_ of the crankhub/hb as well as the inside ? The motor is sitting in the car and i dont have a periscope tool so i've only been able to get bad-angle views of the area.
The crank hub looks pretty thick.. at least 1" of contact between it and the crank snout, but the crank snout looks much shorter than 1".. i realize there is a recess in the timing case cover that the crank hub probably sits in...even so it looks like there wont be all that much material to directly bond together. Also, the crank hub could rock back and forth a bit with no crank nut on it. The specifications for loctite 680 and 638 (anti-cylindrical shear, which i was planning on using between the HB and the crank snout) say they work on gaps as large as .25 mm. .25 mm is _really_ freaking small. I can't imagine that i'd have 1-10 (not sure how much) degrees of wobble with only a .25mm gap. comments ?
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