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Must like Vegas... (archive)

[ Follow Ups ] [ M5 (E28) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]

Posted by Greg K on February 22, 2001 at 16:10:06:

In Reply to: Re: Crank hub posted by Matt Evans on February 21, 2001 at 17:26:44:

because, no offense, but you'll get better odds at a craps table. No polymer-based material can withstand the friction and forces of the crank hub oscillation of a 286hp 7k rpm engine. Remember, it initially fatigued and *welded* the hardened metal of the hub. Loctite will not stand up to this.

Even worse, if it does work say for a day, or maybe even a month, when the loctite does gives-up you're very likely to do some serious damage to the tune of $10k, not $1k. Remember, if you sell it after the loctite fix, and the engine destroys itself yet you didn't disclose the problem, you're liable to the new owner for the repair.

I'd suggest giving the M5 its due and fixing it correctly so you or the next owner doesn't have to re-do it shortly. Pulling the engine and replacing the crank is not that difficult. You can leave the head, pistons, etc. in place and just surgically graft-in the new crank with a fresh set of bearings. Email me if you need details.

Greg K


are you sure you wanna risk holding on a crank hub at 6,000 rpm with locktite? stand clear.


No, i want to use jbweld to hold the key in place (it just sits normally), loctite anti-shear compound to hold the crankhub in place (it just sits normall) and threadlocker to help hold the crank nut in place (it "just" screws on with 325ft/lbs normally)


If my crank nut hadn't already come off twice and caused metal trading to go on on my crank snout.. then this would be far and away a solution of superior strength. :)





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