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In Reply to: Some Guidance for an E28 M5 would be appreciated! posted by J.S. Helm on April 05, 2001 at 11:32:36:
2) Idle: Start from the top and work your way down. Replace maintenance items such as the fuel filter and plugs, clean the K&N (I'd dump it for an OE filter, but they're $25!). Check all the intake hoses and pipes to make sure none are loose, cracked, swelled, or missing. There is a hose on the bottom of the plenum, too. Mine was off when I bought the car. Get some Wurth Leak Detector Spray, and use according to directions. It will help pinpoint vacuum leaks. Clean the idle control valve, and check the reisitance from the center pin to each outer pin. It should be 20 Ohms. If it shows less than 10 Ohms, it will burn up the idle circuit in the DME (Motronic). If the ICV shows open or too low resistance, get a new one ASAP. Do not fix the DME without fixing/replacing the ICV, first. A bad ICV will fry a newly fixed DME.
3) Manuals: Schiff has had a lot of bad publicity among the BMW circles. They do sell the E28 manual, but BMW conveniently did not give any info on the M5. Schiff inserts pertinent M6 info from the BMW E24 manual. Schiff European. Get a Bentley manual to cover the chassis and most of the wiring. The engine and other M5 specific stuff you'll have to research. Chilton's covers the E34 M5, I believe, not the E28 M5.
4) Rough running: Do the tuneup, and throw in some plugwires, if you have the money. They retail at around $350. Try bimmerworld for a 15% discount on OEM wires. Change out the chip for a Conforti, period. There is one for sale right on this board. Or call Turner and ask if they will give you the $100 credit on your aftermarket chip. Makes a new JC chip cost $150. Also check fuel pressure. Regulator is same as any M10, M20, M30 engine, so they're not too expensive. Part 13 53 1 722 040, don't know price.
5) Shudder: Comes from a bad guibo, bad center bearing and/or seized U-joint in the driveshaft. I just fixed mine with a rebuilt DS from Driveline Services of Portland. The rear U-joint was nearly seized up, guibo and center bearing were fine. Cost $400 + $150 core. Your $150 is returned/credited back when they receive your old one back. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours to replace it in a shop or less then four by yourself in the driveway. Or get a new BMW driveshaft for around $650, comes with new guibo and center bearing. The DLS unit comes with new center bearing, but no guibo. However, the big bonuses are cost, a lifetime warranty, and easily replaceable standard U-joints. The BMW shaft is not serviceable until DLS modifies it. A new guibo costs $50 from any dealer that advertises in the Roundel or bimmerworld.
Hope this helps! Feel free to write me.
James
james_535@yahoo.com
88 M5
88 M3
1. What kind of socket do I need to get the spark plugs out. It looks like a
17mm to me, however I do not have one deep enough to remove the SPlug.
Suggestions?
2. The car idles at ~650 rpm and seems to hunt a fair amount. Any thoughts?
3. Is there a service manual for this car available (esp. engine info?)?
4. Runs flat between 1000-2500 rpm with some hesitation. Again, any others
who have solved this? After 2500 it goes like a scalded cat although I still
suspect it is not running at its full potential.
5. The rear of the car shudders slightly upon takeoff from a dead stop.
Again, anyone experienced with this sensation?
Misc Facts; The engine has a chip (Bav Auto I believe, need to open the brain
to confirm) and a K&N. Based on the maintenance records, I suspect the fuel
filter has not been changed recently. One of my first maintenance tasks. Plug
are ?? old. New rotor, dist cap ~ 16K ago. Plug wires appear original.
Thanks for the input.
JSHelm
88 M5
88 325ic
jshelm100@cs.com