Re: New pistons (archive)

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In Reply to: Re: New pistons posted by Michael on September 11, 2001 at 14:56:50:

1. E-mail Brett Anderson at http://www.koalamotorsport.com and rent the tools. I have them right now, but I should be done in a week. These tools will allow you to remove and reinstall the crank bolt EASILY! I just did it and it took 10 mins. Took me $150 for the tool, breaker bar and torque wrench (not needed eventually) rental.

2. E-mail Brett Anderson and ask him the specs. You can pay him a bit more for this or he may not ask. I have a book with all specs. I could try and photocopy the whole thing and mail to you. Send me an address.

3. I gave my head in and they used the specs they had, but I also have Brett's E30 M3 CD-ROM and that has information for the S14, which is directly applicable to the S38 for the most part.

4. I do not need to have any bottom end specs, but I'm sure the machine shop I'm using has them as they have done an S38 before. Actually, you can find that article here:
http://www.bmwe34m5.com/faqs/?theme=1&level=4&question_id_select=309&chapitre_id_select=44&document_id_select=6

I read all previous posts and do appreciate the input. This whole project started as a do-it-yourself project but quickly overwelmed me. The main reason for this feeling is lack of resources or manuals on how to proceed. Torq specs, clearances, measurements, etc...The ability to re-torq the crank hub is one such stumbling block. Another would be balancing the crankshaft - flywheel assembly.

Sir, if you have these types of instruction (step by step) to help me put this engine back together I would GREATLY appreciate the details. You can e-mail me at pm179@yahoo.com.

The car has been towed to a local, specialty shop
They measured the piston/block clearance & report 11 thousandths (2-4 is spec?)

9K to rebuild with new pistons only - boring block of course. Also new hoses, lines, gaskets crank gear. Reusing old block, crank, head, cams & cam tray, etc...

I wonder if you got my earlier post on costs. It should be with the earlier thread.

Where is the block now? If you already have the head off, taking the block out is really not that bad. Seriously, you should be able to see 99% of what you have to remove to take it out and assess for yourself. Go take a look and see what you think. The other thing about taking the block out that is good is that you can teach yourself how to do it more safely than putting things back together as you're doing disassembly and not assembly, where mistakes can be pricey. Don't let having to take the block out stop you.

I have a lot of write-ups on S38 assembly. Let me know if you'd like some help on this. Good luck and remember that though the S38 is a special engine it is _just_ an engine. Don't let the mystique make you break the bank.

Remember me...9grand for a bottom end rebuild? Needless to say I'm still trying to figure out what to do.

Here's a question...IF the cylinders are fine (only piston wear) can(or should) you put in new pistons WITHOUT boring the block. This would save a ton of $$$ because the block can be left in the car. Honing the cylinders can be done in the car, along with changing the bearings, etc...

If the answer is no, please say why. I'm just trying to gather as much info as possible.

Also, as an update...I did talk to Frank Fahey and he can rebuild the bottom end, and reassemble the top end for around 6-7K. Not bad BUT no warranty. He said he has never needed to provide a warranty but it bothers me, especially since I have to ship it across counrty (east coast to west coast & back). I talked to Jim at Metric Mechanics...price is higher but has some warranty, $8,500, also assembled and ready to drop in car.

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