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In Reply to: Timing chain rails -S38 posted by TedM5 on November 04, 2001 at 10:32:41:
All references are to the S38B36 (E34 M5):
1. You don't need to replace the metal/rubber guides that the chain tensioner presses against. They do wear, but don't break.
2. The plastic guide on the tension (driver's side) of the engine should be replaced. $15.
3. Maybe you can get the upper guide (over the cam sprockets) as well. $20.
4. To replace the guide in #2, you do not have to remove the head. You will have to remove the crankshaft pulley though to get the front of engine cover off. Then remove the tensioner to get enough slack in the chain to take it off the crank sprocket so that you can get the guide out from under the chain. The guide will have to be lifted about 2 cm off the front face of block to get it off the two dowels it sits on and only then can you remove it so the chain must come off.
5. If you do not remove the oil pan or the head, the front of engine cover, which mates against the head and oil pan gaskets, will probably compromise those gaskets to the certain extent when it is removed. The oil pan will have to be loosened and dropped a bit and you can put some sealer on the top of the cover to seal against the head gasket.
Neil Deshpande
http://www.neilwerke.com
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Does anyone know if the side plastic guide rail and/or the rubber on metal tensioner rail can be replaced without removing the cam box or head? I want to do some preventative maintenance before putting in a chip and cam gear but I don't want to disassemble much since the car runs perfectly (134K). I'll do the tensioner piston anyway I guess. Or if I can pull the cam box out without removing the cams or head bolts, I would do that if it allows me to replace the rails. Any related suggestions welcome.
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