If you don't cut some sheet metal out, you will have to use a box and much more power. This also increases the sound outside the car, which to me is incredibly annoying. What's worse than sitting at a stop light and having to listen to someone else's music- The back massage is nice and hearing there car rattle apart is amusing though.

The whole system worked out so well that I don't need any EQ at all (besides the X-over). running the system flat was my original goal and it worked. My car audio system is important to be because I'm an audio engineer. My car is one of my most important listening environments and where I get most of my musical ideas. And I've learned that if a mix sounds great in my car, it will translate to almost every system out there. I work in many recording studios and every control room sounds different, but my car always sounds the same, thereby giving me a good reference point. When I travel, I use a Bose Wave CD player for hotel reference.

Alternatively, if you want the whole world to hear how badass your bass sound is, get a different car. Bimmers are so well insulated, it's hard to get the sound out. But, I doubt that's your goal and hope it isn't.

Good Luck!
Ethan

I have seen everything posted about installing a subwoofer and frankly am no timpressed. I know it;s not your guys job to make me go "WOW!" but come on, someone out there has done this beater. I'm ready to install a baffle board to hold four JL Audio 10W4IB (infinate baffle) subs and do the proper sealing of ALL potential leaks of the back wave including over the rear wheel wells. My approach to the geeting the sound into the cabin (front wave at least) is to remove matal from the pre-formed "L shaped compressions and reinforce that with doubled up metal rings and bolt it all together. My other option is a forth order band-pass box with the vent fireing up through the deck or into the back seat. Some one give me some trial and error plz.

Tia
Brian