Re: trailing arm bushings (archive)

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1. I used this opportunity to R&R the handbrake cables with new ones from a Southern car (no MI/OH corrosion) and restored the handbrake operation to 100%.

3. I reseated a subframe bushing that had allowed the subframe to ride up on it due to excess soap during installation.

4. The brake hard lines from proportioning valve rearwards were all replaced. Can you say "PITA"!

5. All this made the STA bushing R&R look easy as pie. Man, that puller worked so well I was laughing at how easy it all was.

6. When I was done, the car was NOTICEABLY tighter (200k miles), particularly in rear subframe judder mode (take-off shudder). I am certainly going to do this on the convertible as soon as I have time.

7. The use or urethane might be nice here as the subframe bushes supply the necessary isolation for the passengers and one might as well stiffen up the rest. You will have less longevity and lose some dynamic toe-in under cornering, but then I don't really push the iC much.

8. I had no tranny jack, etc. I just took my time. The car was up for 3 wks while I did all this work and other little stuff. I have a back-up car and I don't like to do things rushed as it takes the fun out of it.

Like you, I removed the entire rear subframe assembly to replace all of the wear items and had the differential rebuilt with a Quaife ABT unit.

The subframe bushings were torn almost in two. The were a bit stubborn, but I was able to press them out on a bearing press. I noticed that the new ones were considerably beefier with 50% more rubber but I still filled them with urethane per Ed's instructions on the teamdfl.com web site.

The trailing arms wouldn't fit in the bearing press without making an elaborate fixture. I had new bushings in hand but ultimately decided not to install them as the old ones looked fine.

I replaced the pittman arms as the old ones had small cracks in the rubber and the new ones were cheap.

The upper differential mount is a bit expensive but I replaced it too as the old one was clearly bad when compared to the new one. This surprised me and I took a few photos of the two units which clearly shows the difference. I don't know how to post photos but can e-mail them to you if you'd like. I would advise that you check the diff. mount if you already have the subframe out of the way.

I sprayed the rear subframe with an epoxy paint and should finish putting everything back in the car within a day or two.

In hindsight and considering that I couldn't replace the trailing arm bushings, I don't feel removing the entire assembly was the way to go. The only advantage was not having to drive out the subframe bushing bolts up through the rear seat area and being able to clear everthing up and re-assemble it on a workbench.

Disconnecting the handbrake cables, brake lines, ABS sensors, etc. just took too much time.

And I can't imagine trying to do this job without a professional quality transmission jack.

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