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In Reply to: complete suspension replacement posted by Ben Keyes on June 21, 2002 at 21:43:25:
Early on:
- I discarded Dinan's teflon sway bar bushings and went back to stock to get rid of the squeaks.
- Replaced the front control arm bushings with ones from a 750i to get rid of a shimmy when braking.
- Added 4x6x.25 in. reinforcing plates - inside the trunk & welded to the floor - to stop the rear sway bar mounts from tearing loose.
The " dog bones" (link joints) and rear crossmember bushings were replaced at 92K. Replaced the rear top spring pads at 100K and the rear shocks at 109K when one started leaking. Also replaced the right inner rear trailing arm bushing (source of a clunk that was only apparent at speeds below 30 mph and wasn't apparent when on a lift with the suspension unloaded), and I am considering replacing the other three when an earlier post pointed out that two of the bushings are eccentric so that rear toe-in can be set.
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I'm going to do the complete replacement on the suspension on my M5 shortly. car has 195k on it & I do not believe most, if not all of it has ever been replaced.
I'll be removing the rear load leveling (the pump on which still works fine btw, I'll have to sell it when I get it off I guess) and need to know what sort of sway bars, struts & springs I should put back onto the car.
I'm not going to track the car (have a track car), nor auto-x (don't like it), just daily drive & take a few highway trips. consequently I don't need to go extra-stiff, but perhaps a bit stiffer than stock.
what are people running on their cars for similar use ?
Ben Keyes
'88 M5
'87 332iS