In Reply to: Brake Bleeder - Who makes the Best / Easiest? posted by JJS on March 06, 2001 at 19:40:03:
An anondized, aluminum pressure cap fitted with a quick-release connection (female), a guage, and a pressure adjusting valve. A pressurized tank is required though a quality bicycle pump can be made to work if you use a male fitting as the quick connect above.
Keep the pressure between 12-18 lbs. and the fluid passes out wonderfully. AVOID letting the master cylinder run too low on fluid however or you will introduce air into the lines and have to start all over. Too much pressure (25+ lbs) risks blowing a seal in the master cylinder or, worse, booster.
Steve's part works equally well for the slave cylinder. With this tool, the job is no harder than an oil change - though it takes longer because you have to raise & lower each corner to remove the wheels. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (RR) and move to the next furthest (LR) and the next (RF) and next (LF).
Get a 7mm combination wrench for the bleeder nipples - a slender (read real high-quality) wrench will be somewhat easier to work with but it is not mandatory.