In Reply to: D///M3 Paint Questions posted by Ari on January 13, 2002 at 21:21:00:
We used all PPG products. I was convinced that PPG stuff was pretty good. I was gonna use dupont but a few guys said that dupont red fades really fast. So i used PPG zinerberrot ( cinnebar red) and PPG clear coat.
When you say " wet sand, buff it out & then glaze it"
What exactly do you mean? whats buffing out and then glazeing? What products should i use? Then should i wax it now or in a few weeks?? I want the paint to look as good as possible. also i know wheater plays a role and it pretty cold here now between 20 - 40 degrees.
when it was painted it was still around 55 degrees. NY wheater was a little funny this year. Anyway Thanks for your help.
PPG is very good, that's what was sprayed on my car- ALL PPG, from primer to clear.
When you wet sand the car, start out w/ a 1500 grit & then go over the car w/ 2000 grit. Keep in mind that you want to keep the paper clean of any dirt & ALWAYS wet! I like to keep a wash bucket w/ a soapy wash mit in it to wipe the panel off that I'm wet sanding- lather it up. CONCENTRATE on one panel at a time, You will want to use a small rubber hard block to wrap the wet sand paper in so you are leveling an even surface while sanding. Very simple- Not real rocket science here!
As far as buffing products- We use 3M. After wet sanding the car, completely wash the car so it is clean w/ no dust/ dirt on it. Dry it off. Start out w/ a buffing compound & a wool pad. Meguiars also makes a good buffing compound too... After buffing the car w/ compound, go over it again w/ a glaze. The glaze helps w/ swirl marks, and kind of seals it- helps bring depth out. If you are not waxing the car after glazing it, the glaze will come of w/ the next car wash. You will need to wax the car to sealtis process-
Red is the most (one-of) expensive colors to buy & paint a car. The pigments in the color dictate the pricing I guess. It sucks because insurance companies don't write or allow anymore funds for red paint. Some of the red's run up to and inexcess of $100/quart shop cost! When my car was sprayed, I spent $300 alone on the base color (Cinnabar). Then you have to figure in reducers, hardners, clear, primers, etc.. I have close to $1K into the paint products alone (shop cost)-
People cringe when they get an estimate on getting acar re-sprayed. they want the best job, best products & of course the lowest price! You get what you pay for! Cheap Products= Cheap Results & you'll be doing it all over again w/in the next year wondering why the "A-1 turbo" clear is flaking off. So where do thay come out "ahead" in the game?!
Sorry for the long post-
D///M3 (Auto Body shop janitorial supervisor by day :)
'92 E30 325iC
'88 E30 ///M3
'95 E30 325e
Ft. Lauderdale, FL