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In Reply to: Re: It`s not a hard job, but it takes some time... posted by Highrever on June 16, 2002 at 12:13:42:
Sometimes John, maybe 1/20 starts*cold* it'll rattle around for about 4 seconds, but then again it could be piston slap from the forged slugs. If you waited till 155, I guess i could wait, the rails where down to about half of the rubber about 15k miles ago when i did the conversion. Maybe i'll just do the tensioner for now. So a 750 tensioner is the best right? direct replacement? and won't need any mods with a regular E-30 M3 setup?. Also what year and model 750, so I make sure I get the right one, TIA.
....because there is so much to remove just to get to it. Loosening the crank nut may be a problem. Don`t forget the o-rings in the pivot of the lower tensioner rail. My car had 155K and the rails were grooved pretty bad. The chain itself was in great shape. Is your chain rattling on startup?
John
88 ///M3 Cinnabar
Hey guys, how hard is it to replace the chain tensioner and rails yourself with mediocre shadetree mechanic skills?
When I did my turner 2.5 conversion, I noticed my rail guides where pretty worn down, but opted not to replace them at the time, car has 92,000 miles on it, is there a certain milage I want to wait for to replace them? or is now a good time. Also I read of the E-36 tensioner upgrade, i'm going to be doing that also since it's just a direct bolt on, any upgrades for the chain guides as well?
TIA