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The complete automotive resource for buyers, sellers, and owners like you.

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Pre-purchase Inspections:
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Under the hood:
*Check fluid levels: oil, coolant, hydraulic oil, gearbox oil on standard, ATF level on automatics, differential oil, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid and intensive washer fluid (auxiliary tank in trunk on Eurospecs).
*Surging at idle, rough idle--leaking manifold gaskets, DK motor fault, faulty fuel pressure reg., leak in air cleaner assembly, air temp sensor, etc.
*Gasoline smell from engine compartment--check for leaking charcoal canister, fuel lines, leaking injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulators (best to look under injector cover also)
*Check the oil--see if it is at least somewhat clean and proper level
*check for leaks in windshield washer bottle (is it holding water?)
*check chain tensioner for leaking oil. It may or may not have a black hollow tube leading out from it (called anti-tamper key)-chain tensioner is found immediately above air-conditioning compressor. Common leak point. More of an annoyance than maintenance issue.
*check for any fluid leaks from hydraulic assembly found on driver side mounted by wheel well. Common leaks can occur from pressure switches found on the hydraulic pressure regulator assembly (they have wires running to them).
*check for smooth idle. In America you should be able to balance a nickel on its side on the injector cover without it falling over if the engine is idling correctly.
*Run car to normal operating temperature and turn on A/C. The auxiliary fan found in front of the radiator should switch on. Also, if the temperature gauge on the dash goes above midpoint when idling but goes down when on the road, and the auxiliary fan is working properly, a new fan clutch my be needed. If the overheat condition is alleviated by revving the engine, this MAY be a stuck or broken thermostat.
*check all hoses, wires, wire/hose harnesses, and connectors for cracks, etc.
*headlight assemblies should line up vertically and within their openings on the hood when retracted. When up, they should be level with each other.
*check operation of all lights, headlights should not move in their shrouds. If they do move, then you may need new adjusters (original are plastic on US specs cars). Metal adjusters have become available from a 3rd party (see www.roadfly.com).

Suspension, drivetrain, exhaust, and braking systems:
*Wobble in steering when accelerating or decelerating--can be unbalanced tires, warped rotors, bent wheels, loose suspension parts, or old bushings. In rare cases, shocks can cause this also.
*Jam on the brakes fast and hard.--if real hard pedal then normal pedal travel --possible nitrogen bomb (accumulator), pressure solenoid or vacuum problem.
*Check tire wear--gives a great indication of front suspension problems (assumes SOME tire wear).
*Crinkling or "tinking" sound when car first takes off in reverse or forward--needs new BMW alternative to U-joints on the drive shaft (called Joint Disc or Guibo). Some models have the joint disc, some have U-joints.
*rattling from front end when going over bumps--bad bushings and/or needs new struts (check bushings first!). Also check for missing brake pad clamps.
*check for hard steering and squealing noise if wheel turned far right (check hydraulic fluid level )
*be sure to check under car and look at exhaust system from engine all the way back to tailpipes for rust-contact on body, etc.
*run finger around inside rim of exhaust on both sides. Normal state is dry and greyish/white. Oily or black/sooty may indicate oil consumption/burning

From interior of car:
*Open sunroof in both positions (up and back). All operation should be smooth and when closed the sunroof should line up with roof of car. Check for rust points around rim of sunroof and for tight sunroof gasket (no splits or separations).
*If a 6 speed, 2nd gear can be a little notchy until warm (but you can use this to "show" the seller to reduce the price--as well as pulling the knob up and off will take off the knob and boot! Makes it look like the car is falling apart, but it is actually that way normally?!)
*Check onboard computer for bad pixels. Check radio and CD player (bring 6 CD's if it has a changer to check all)
*Operate all windows, steering wheel, and seat positions--especially seat base up and down travel. Steering wheel should move up and down, in and out. Check memory function (on left of driver seat ). Steering wheel should elevate when the car is shut off and parking brake is applied. Right side mirror should tilt down when reverse is selected and mirror adjustment selector is set to left. Check for rust points around windshield or rear windshield by opening hood and trunk. If glass looks better than it should for age of vehicle, check for leaks by going through a carwash or using pressurized spray.
*check air conditioning and heating--turn blower on full, low airflow indicates a need for new micro filter and implies poor maintenance. Check for cold AND hot air coming out of all vents by switching between A/C and heat. Failure of either heat or cold to come out of either side (driver or passenger) vents on dash indicates a possible HVAC repair that requires removal of the dashboard.

Cosmetic:
*check rubber window gasket--tears easily where rear window seats-- expensive to fix
*check hatrack (rear deck) and headliner for loose fabric
*check for loose vinyl or leather trim (seems to be a common problem in all BMW's)
*check for overspray of paint on any gaskets or rubber contact points in hood or trunk area (will show if has been re-painted)
*burn marks or felt repair on headliner, pillar covers, felt window liner, etc.
*Check for even the tiniest point of rust ANYWHERE on the car and under the car. You should not find any rust on the body ANYWHERE. However, the exhaust is prone to rusting. Normal.
*paint condition
*door dings
*rock chips on front of car--two edged sword. Ugly and expensive to repair but actually indicates more highway mileage, which in my book is a GOOD thing mechanically.
*etc, etc, etc.

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