|
In Reply to: 1990 750iL purchase posted by Brian W. on November 19, 2000 at 21:52:50:
First fire off a email to Scott Marzahl. He seems to be the resident gearhead on 750's on this board. He's been there done that in every intimate space on this car. Actually I used a post of his 2 months ago which was a checklist of things to look out for when I was purchasing a 92 750iL. Also run the VIN through www.carfax.com/free. This gives you an abbreviated report to check on vehicle title history.
From memory here is what I remember.
1. Make sure all the electric options on the interior of the car are working.
a. Seats, headrests, heaters, lumbar support
b. Inspect the climate control features carefully especially the AC and make sure they are all functioning properly, this is good way to check the main blower. By this time 107K some of them have noisy or shot bearings in the motor.
c. Mirrors including auto tilt for pass side
d. Telescopic wheel
e. Sunroof
f. On board computer
g. Steering stalk levers and their functions
h. Auto dimming rear view mirror
i. Stereo and CD changer
j. Windows and rear window lock out switch
k. Don't intentionally crash car to test airbags
which it may or may not have a passenger SRS. Look under hood and on each inside fendor there will be a little orange box.. That is the SRS sensor. If you have two then pass is covered.
2. Body and moldings
a. Inspect all door seals
b. Check the VIN tag on all body panels. If one or more is missing car may have been repaired/repainted. Rear quarter panels and truck lid tags are hidden behind interior coverings.
3. Mechanical
a. Engine and tranny mounts
b. Rear self leveling shock, check for leaking or questionable hoses
c. While car running, check that the power steering works normally, brake pedal remains firm when depressed. This basically quickly checks out the hydraulic system to see if it's working.
d. Inspect belts
e. Ask previous owner if ethylene glycol was used for the coolant. If it was then find out when the radiator was changed. If it has not been then you may be doing it soon. Aluminum radiators require european spec coolant.
f. Be vigilant on the first to second gear shifts, if they seem hard, then the tranny is most likely low on fluid.
g. Check hydraulic reservoir level. If it is low there may be a concern for the hydraulic pump. I understand it doesn't run long if starved or there is a system leak somewhere in the power steering, ABS brake, ASC traction control, LAD self leveling rear suspension. These are all integrated system meaning they share components.
h. front and rear suspension components.
g. steering components
i. inquire about oil useage/1000 miles.
Depending on if your a DIY and have access to a lift you can do all these things yourself with a consenting seller, but you better already have that Bentley manual in hand and read it at least twice. Or you can pay a Independent shop 2 C notes and they'll go through the car in a couple of hours and let you know. Actually this is the best way to check out the suspension, steering, and hydraulics. The other items known to go bad, can't speak from experience, you can only check on past service records or the sellers advice to see if the've been replaced.
1. Hydraulic accumulators for rear suspension and brakes/powersteering.
2. Water pump/radiator. Oh BTW check the belts to see if only 1 or both are 6 rib style. If they are then the car has been updated to the new belt and pulley for the alternator, which used to be a V setup.
3. Self leveling shock absorbers and associated hosing.
4. Throttle body motors (DK motors)
5. Intake manifold gaskets. Old gaskets needing killing will either cause rough idle or a gas smell upon start up.
6. Brake master cylinder and booster
That's all I can think of at the moment and when you start the car pay attention to fault messages which may come up on the alpha numeric display below the speedo/tach. There should be nothing except fasten seat belts.
In a work yes it can be expensive to maintain especially if you pay someone else to execute the maintenance. Ask anyone on this board who has a 750i/iL and they will all tell you this car is awe inspiring for luxury and performance. In fact all of them are biased even toward the 740/735 because of the V12. Those models are great, don't get me wrong, but the V12 and it's transmission make a quantum leap in performance. In closing DON'T BE CHEAP WITH THIS CAR! Put good parts in it and fix things as they happen.
Your gonna be orgasmic over the one you finally pick out. I moped for 2 weeks after passing on an 89 but found a 92 for 13,000.00 w110k, dealer babied all it's life, good deals are out there. Don't rush out and claim the first. Force yourself to look around. The 89 would have put me at 10,850.00, way to much for that car. And there are plenty out there. Can't wait till you tell us your an owner!
Guy Simpson
92 750iL
I need to preface my post with, I know very little about this car mechanically. Which is what brings me to this board. I have been reading for a few weeks now, and am immpressed with some of your knowledge, and am getting some good basic info.
My question is this: I have found a 1990 750iL with 107,000 miles. He is asking low-avg retail and is in very good condition from the outside. What sorts of "problems" are typically associated with this vehicle? I have read the timing chain lasts about 100k.
Are these cars horribly expensive to maintain, especially for someone with no mechanical inclination? The local BMW shop recently went out of business, and I am in Iowa, with the closest dealer 1 hour east or 2 hours west. aarrgghh!
I purchased a new BMW before the Mercedes I now own and loved it, but am looking for something to take down the road with elbow room, and a smooth, very comfortable ride. I drive about 20-25K miles per year, mostly highway.
Any information is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
BW
© 1997 -
2009
Jump Internet Inc. All rights reserved.
