Re: CHECK ENGINE LIGHT/STUCK DOOR PUSH-PULL PIN (archive)

FIRST OFF I GOT THE DOOR OPENED THANK YOU TO EVERYONE!!!!!!!NOW THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND IT RUNS ROUGH AND I GET ABOUT 50 MILES TO THE 1/4 TANK. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT IT IS THE O2 SENSER WHICH I LOOKED AT BUT HOW DO YOU GET THE DARN THING OUT. AND IS THIS MY PROBLEM OR SOMETHING ELSE. ALSO THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR LIGHT CAME ON BUT I THINK IT IS WEAR AND TEAR BECAUSE I USE CASTROL 5W-50 FULL SYNTHETIC. THE NEXT THING IS THAT AFTER OPENINIG THE DOOR [PASSENGER SIDE] THE PUSH/PULL PIN WILL NOT GO DOWN WHEN PUSHING IT AND WILL NOT LOCK WITH THE KEY. ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU ALL

Regarding the "check engine" light, there are about 60 codes associated with why that might come on. While the O2 sensor is a typical one, rather than taking a shot in the dark, you should just get a read-out of the specific fault code. The procedure is outlined in the archives and in either the Bentley manual or the Popular Mechanics CD rom for the car.

Don't guess at why the pressure light came on. There has been a posting on this board in the last 3 days or so on replacing the oil pressure sensor and using a mechanical gauge to verify that the pressure is, in fact low. If "wear and tear" is the problem, that usually manifests as low oil pressure at idle because bearing clearances are not tight enough and at low volume, such as when the oil pump is moving slowly at idle, too much oil leaks past the bearings and pressure can't build.

If bearing wear is in fact the problem, stop using the 5-50 as that is really thin stuff. If you want to use synthetic, switch to Mobil One 15-50, which is noticeably thicker.

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