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1. Make sure all the hoses {including the little obscure ones} are 100% - old hoses can partially collapse internally seriously restricting water flow. Telltale signs of a shot hose are bulging round the clamp, cracks, and a ‘wooden’ feel.
2. Make sure the radiator fins are totally clear of all debris – bugs, grass, grease, and general gunge. The air spaces between fins are very small and the airflow is easily reduced to a critical level. Make sure the airflow into radiator isn’t blocked and all the air directing panels are present / in good condition.
3. If the radiator is silver, give is a light coat of flat black – black has a much higher radiation capacity which is relevant when the car is standing or the engine is turned off after a run.
4. Make sure the radiator is clear internally – particularly in an area where the water is hard. Backflush the rad and use one of the proprietary de-scaling agents. The flow should be strong and if the rad seems blocked, replace it.
5. Use high quality antifreeze all year round even in a hot area.
6. Make sure the thermostat is working OK and if possible replace it with one with a slightly lower opening temperature – in the UK these are known as ‘summer’ stats.
7. Use Redline or a similar ‘water wetter’ – this increases the heat transfer capacity of water and can lower temperatures by around 15 degrees centigrade.