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In Reply to: My problems / gotchas posted by Max Fretter (NZ 87 735i) on July 09, 2001 at 02:55:56:
Hiya Wayne...
The new Monroes here at the front are wearing in well. Major pains with my change were:
1) disconnecting the sway-bar links from the strut was a major PITA - easier to disconnect the BOTTOM of the link from the swaybar, MUCH easier to get to the flats on the balljoint shaft with the 17mm open-ender
2) the 3 19mm bolts holding the steering plate to the bottom of the strut were removable only with air tools; one needed gas too. Basically shot the job in the head for doing at home with my tools. Also be careful not to leave your ignition on steering lock if you're going to try the shock-with-a-big-bar approach
2b) the 19mm bolts holding the brake caliper mounts to the strut also needed air wrenches to loosen; a c-clamp to the back of the caliperand the back of the outward facing pad opens out the caliper piston to get the caliper off the rotor easily.
3) the cartridge retaining "cap" nut (the one you'd use a pipe wrench to undo) needed cutting off for the rust... the replacement ones for the Monroes weren't super-hot for rust-proofing either... but YMMV - mine was ex-UK with the road salt there too.
4) the struts are heavy, and were a two person job to get back in (we did leave the rotors on though).
5) we used two sets of spring clamps, and it help a lot
6) the steering head bearings (in the strut top plates) needed a real good flush & grease re-inject on mine to get them running smoothly.
7) carefully check your gaiters & bump-stops - the later tube-type covers need a very positive ridge on the bump-stop to remain centered & located vertically on the strut... if the bump-stop is not goign to hold the tube-type covers, they'll get crushed on the car going back on it's wheels.
New tube covers were abt $2US each; new bumpstops abt $20 each...
8) make sure the drain channel on the back of the spring mount "cone" (where it joins the strut tube) is clear
Hope this helps.
Max
About to order strut insert and would like any feedback from you guys on the brands I can easily get my hands on (looking for original feel and replacing Boge originals):
Boge (OEM) --> $103
Bilstein (HD) --> $108
KYB GR-2 gas --> $42
Stealer (assume Boge) --> $519 (yes, each!!)
Currently heading towards the Boge but the price of the KYB is very tempting...any comments??
Also any other tips and tricks I should know about or is the Bentley reasonable accurate?
Thanks, '88 750iL