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In Reply to: "Jerry" posted by John on October 07, 2001 at 20:54:40:
Turn key to "on" position (fans blowing, dash lights on) but do not start the car. Within 5 seconds, press the gas pedal to the floor (so you engage the kick-down switch) and release 5 times.
The check engine light will blink ON for 2 seconds & then go off. It will then blink for 1/2 seconds a number of times separated by 2 seconds OFF. This reveals the 4-digit diagnostic code. For example, the intake air temp sensor fault code is 1224 so the check engine light will:
ON 2 seconds - indicates start of code
OFF for (1-2 seconds?)
blink once for 1/2 second - DIGIT 1 = 1
OFF 2 seconds
blink twice for 1/2 second - DIGIT 2 = 2
OFF 2 seconds
blink twice for 1/2 second - DIGIT 3 = 2
OFF 2 seconds
blink four times for 1/2 second - DIGIT 4 = 4
Indicates fault code "1224"
Perform this to get the fault code & look up what it means. If the code indicates a bad Idle speed stabl. then that's the best way.
Some posts say you can clean it as over time it gets dirty & can stick but I would strongly suggest replacement as it's not that hard to replace & costs around $100-$150 US and you can be sure it is good.
The IAT (intake air temp sensor) is a separate part from the airflow sensor. It is NOT included with the airflow meter on your car. It is confusing as some 5-series in the same year(s) have the IAT and airflow sensor as one part but we (7 series) do not.
When you say the car wants to die, is it only at idle, only off-idle or both? You may have some secondary problems. I had to diagnose several things (and replace several things) before I got my car to work properly. It is an iterative process.
The best way to proceed is to replace the part that the check engine light says is bad, drive the car & if the light comes on again, repeat the process. It can be frustrating but in the long run, it's worth it.
I am also against cleaning, refurbishing, rebuilding or buying used any of the parts or sensors involved in the fuel/air metering. These cars are very sensitive & depend on these sensors very much. You may believe you have done a good job repairing or cleaning a faulty part & it may check out fine on the bench but it may not behave properly in the car. Going "new" with these parts can save a lot of frustration down the line.
By the way, can you post your exact vehicle model, year, engine type & number of miles on the car. Also please let me know more about it's current behavior (die at idle, off-idle, any misses, etc.)
Good luck!
I found in the bendly manual how to measure the
Replace ambient air temp sensor (also called intake air temp sensor)
and it reads fine, also replaiced my hose to the
fuel pressure reg.
Drove it home ran fine 3/4 of the way,
then "Engine" light comes on and she just whants to die,
whats the best way to test the "Idle speed stabl.?
Or any other sugestions?
Did replaice the whole airflow meter, so I'm assuming the
IAT is incl. in it?
Any thoughts greatly appr.
John
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