Don't forget the coat hanger for the calipers. (archive)

The ATE calipers are a breeze, really. Need some brake-cleaning spray (to kill any dust) and a 7mm allen key for the caliper "slide" bolts; you'll also probably need some sort of pipe-pliers or C-Clamp to push the caliper back in a bit to release the pads. (If you're going to get really pedantic a torque wrench would be required for getting everything tight, but the allen-bolts are stainless steel into steel, so there's no alloy to strip... I just do them up as tight as I can, with a 6" tube for more leverage).
Other options:
- needle nose pliers for freeing the pad wear sensor (if it's still good you can swap it to the new set of pads)
- if the rotors need replacement, you will probably need an impact driver to free up the little locating allen bolt; I found that a hex-driver bit, a hammer and a fully charged cordless drill freed the thing, then the rotor can be drifted off with the hammer & wood. No bearings exposed.
Bentleys is a very good investment, esp if you need to adjust the handbrake shoes (bear on the inside of the rear rotors as a pseudo-drum) after replacing the rear rotors.
Max

After the recent dealer's bill for replacing brake pads and rotors, I thought I'd consider doing my own work. I've always left maintenance on my 93 740iL to the dealer, although I do perform work on my 911. Just finishing total brake line and rotor replacement and caliper rebuild on it.
How difficult is it to replace pads and rotors on the 740? Any special tools needed or tricks I need to know? If I start doing my own mechanical work, what is the best tech manual to buy?
thanks in advance

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