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Where? (archive)

[ Follow Ups ] [ 7-series (E32) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]

Posted by Norm on February 11, 2002 at 16:48:35:

In Reply to: Re: Fixed mine last week (long): posted by David F on February 11, 2002 at 14:01:36:

That makes sense...
could you direct me to the post, I searched several ways and couldn't find it.

Thanks,
n



Norm:

The problem you described is the emergency unlock mechanism (activated). Seems a lot of people are having this problem lately. I outlined corrective proceedure several days ago (look below somewhere).


Mine also did exactly as you described.
I opened it up and found the bracket that holds the actuator was cracked. I made an aluminum brace and used #8 screws to hold in on. I also JB welded gaps in the fix. The actuator has a large range of freedom, so this doesn't have to be perfect, but it's not hard to get it very precise.

Still, the lock didn't work. I removed the lock mechanism again and found that the linkage connection from the key lock mechanism to the lock box (interfaces with the door frame)was not in the right place to allow manually locking via the button on the top of the door, and of course, the central locking system. You know there is a problem when you have the door panel off, you close the door (or simulate a door closure by pressing the door lock latch inward two positions) and you cannot manually work the lock button. It just doesn't seem to move far enough. Work your way up the linkage to the key lock mechanism and find the part (1/4 pie shape) that the link connects to. That part is rotated out of it's proper position. It should rotate about 45 degrees or more when working properly, mine moved only about 5 degrees. I (gently ?) forced it back into the correct position, and found that it solved the problem. I don't think I damaged anything, nor did I see anything that appeared broken.

You then re-assemble everything, close the unlocked door, and synchronize, NOT as described in the Bentley manual (check the archives or email me).

After re-synchronization I have had no problems, the locking system works everytime, and seems a lot smoother than before.

One trick in the removal of the lock mechanism is the removal of the window guide track that runs in front of the key lock mechanism. There is one Torx screw under the weather seal, and the top part hooks into the inside of the door.

I also highly suggest (and I'm not particularly prone to lots of safety) to disconnect the window motor. If you have things taken apart and/or have your arms to the elbow buried in the door, the last thing you want is an electrical glitch or somehting to lower that window. You will end up in the emergency room, not to mention crunching all the nice door lock parts in the way. Put a rag on the motor so you don't forget to hook it up again in your rush to see if you can drive it to work the next day...

Sorry this is so long, it's hard to explain. If it's too confusing, send me an email and I'll walk you through it.

good luck






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