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my original post. (archive)

[ Follow Ups ] [ M5 (E34) Message Board ] [ Msg. Board FAQ ]

Posted by Rob @ UUC Motorwerks on February 13, 2001 at 13:03:21:

In Reply to: FYI: clutch stop revision posted by James Hartline on February 12, 2001 at 18:37:12:

Actually, i never posted this to the bimmer.org M5 board. Here's the original text:

I had a free hour this afternoon so I finally got around to figuring out a
"do it yourself" design clutch stop for the E34.

For those unfamiliar with the concept of the clutch stop, see:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_stop/index.htm

The clutch stop for the E34 is a different design due to differences in the
platform (oddly enough, all E30, E24, E28, E36, and E46 can use the same
design - only our E34s are different). The E34 does not have the factory
mounting hole in the floor that all the other BMWs have... just shows how
special our cars are, huh?

This design works but is not 100% complete as the head is still metal and
makes a very slight "click" when the clutch is pushed in. Final version
should have some sort of rubber or polyurethane head to eliminate any sound.

The purpose of the wide washer is to account for the slight side-to-side
play of the clutch pedal arm. I found that mine would slip off the head of
the bolt if I applied pressure anything other than directly in.

After installation, every shift's clutch engagement was very smooth. The
slight under- or over-rev that accompanies anything other than a perfectly
timed shift was virtually eliminated. This is the same effect we see with
the standard UUC clutch stop in the other BMWs.

PARTS LIST (sourced from local "Pep Boys" auto parts store):
(1) M6-1.0 Foldover speed nut (Motormite/Body-Tite p/n 45426, package of 2 -
$1.69)
(1) M6-1.0 x 30mm hex bolt - .39
(1) M6-1.0 nut - .19
(1) M6 lock washer - .09
(1) 1" - 1.5" washer with M6-size hole (I used the washer from a 1-7/8"
freeze plug package that I happened to have.) - approximately .25

Yes, I would have used "M5" hardware if I could have found it!

ASSEMBLY:
Place the large washer on the bolt, followed by the lock washer and nut.
Tighten.

INSTALLATION:
1) locate original rubber stopper for clutch pedal under dash located where
plastic under-dash panel meets carpeting. This is the point where the
clutch pedal arm contacts the floor (actually the firewall as it is vertical
at contact point).

2) Pull out the rubber stopper with pliers. It will probably rip - don't
worry, a replacement is available for under $1 if you choose to return to
stock.

3) Locate plastic panel screw immediately to left of rubber stopper bracket.
Rotate screw 90 degrees to release, pull up center section of plastic panel.

4) Place speed nut around small bracket where rubber stopper was located.
Line up holes of speed nut with bracket hole.

5) Screw in clutch stop assembly, making sure to get wide washer underneath
plastic panel that you pulled up in step #3.

ADJUSTMENT:
In my car, the correct position was screwed in all the way. The height of
the nut, lock washer, wide washer, and bolt hex head was perfect with the
assembly bottomed out. Some cars' clutch may be higher, in which case the
assembly must be screwed out some. Basically, you should be able to put the
shifter in gear without any more resistance than normal. Keep screwing out
the assembly until you have resistance in the shifter, then screw it back in
a bit. If your car does let you have the assembly screwed out more than 8mm
or so then you may consider an additional lock washer and nut tightened
against the speed nut/bracket to keep it from rotating.

Over time, the clutch stop may have to be adjusted as the take-up point of
the clutch can change with clutch wear.

- Rob Levinson
'94 M5 3.8 Touring


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