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In Reply to: pertronix posted by R. Murphy on April 09, 2001 at 19:14:46:
First loosen the dist collar so that the dist can be rotated but isn't too loose. then retard the dist (turn clockwise) until you get the car at around 900-1000 rpm and it is running smoothly. if it runs rough you might have to advance it a bit (counter clockwise). then drop the bonnet and get in the car and take it for a test drive. a hill is ideal but a straightaway is fine. the idea is to get the car into a high load/high rev situation and monitor the pinging. so push it into 3rd where you would normally be in 2nd and rev it up. if the timing is too advanced (to far CCW) you will get pinging so retard the dist. if you don't get pinging you might be too retarded (no jokes) so try advancing the timing. then take it for the load test drive again.
keep tweeking until you get a balance between power, responsiveness and lack of pinging. it's a 'feel' thing.
once you get it, you may or may not be in spec but your timing will be set ideally to the state of your engine. tighten the dist clamp, of course.
you the blast resitor remains you may need to change the connectors on the pertronix to connect up to your car properly.
just in case you didn't know, the pinging is preignition, where the fuel ignites before the piston is TDC. this starves the engine of power and can potentially burn a hole in the piston if it is chronic. so you want to avoid pinging as much as possible. but you also don't want to be too retarded (who does?).
finally, when you are all done, in neutral and stopped try revving the engine up slowly and let it drop naturally. it should go up and down smooth. then tray revving it up quickly and let it drop. again, it should be smooth. then turn the car off, wait a minute and start it up. it should start up right away and idle smoothly.
the end
brett
How easy is it to install pertronix. Do I need any tools such as the timing light?
Does the ballast resistor remain?
Regards
Rohan Murphy