Don't laugh...there is a story behind this caveat.

Bob

I would also turn the enine over once with the crankshaft pulley bolt after adding the oil to ensure that the rings are not seized to the bores.

If the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate are rust seized together, I find it helps to run the engine until it reaches normal temp, and shut it down. Let it heat-soak the clutch for 30 minutes or so. Then try starting the engine in gear (with the clutch depressed). It it doesn't break loose, then position the car and start it in first gear or reverse. Get on/off the throttle (like a new driver trying to learn how to use a clutch) and it will usually break free.

A more intense person than I might also consider removing the cam cover and drizzling some engine oil down the cam before starting the engine to ensure cam lobe lubrication.

After several years you may also have a fuel related problem (varnish/gum).

Bob

make sure it's got oil

pull the plugs and shoot some ATF or other lube in the cylinders. I used a piece of aquarium tubing, taped to a bit or wire, to "find" the spark plug hole, then blew in the ATF.

crank till the oil telltale light goes out.

Replace plugs, connect wires, and start it up.

Your clutch and/brakes may have become one with the flywheel/rotors. You'll must have to rock the car until they free up.

I would be very cautious about the condition/useability of the clutch, and more so the brakes, until I had gently tested both BEFORE going onto a public road.

I live 'way up on a steep hill. When I do brakes on my or someone else's car, I tell 'em take off and test UPHILL. Then you know you'll stop. Also remember there's always the hand brake, but it makes a poor anchor for a fast moving car.

And, of course, rust. Say no more.

HTH
Charlie