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This question was posted Tues. & Wed. (more) (archive)

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Posted by BD on October 05, 2000 at 15:50:24:

In Reply to: How much for rear pads/rotors? Dealer says... posted by Kevlar on October 05, 2000 at 14:37:48:

I have included my responses from previous posts this week, they are still available below to review in their entirety:

No, Euro floating rotors are not available for the rears only the fronts.

I buy my parts from Nick Alexander in LA. I bought rear rotors for $55 each and Euros for $108 each. You can get OEM type pads (REPCO/PBR Metalmasters)for rear at $30 and fronts for $43. They work as good as stock and dust less. Do the work yourself. I can do the rear rotors and pads and bleed the brakes under one hour. But I have experience at it. It takes the same for the fronts, the process is the same. So if you mail order the parts and do the work yourself, the rear "brake job" cost $140. Or get the parts yourself and take them to the dealer or an independent and pay for the labor. Still about $200-$250 depending on labor. I have taken my parts to the dealer before and they never bitched at me for bringing my own parts.

Worse case is paying the stealer prices. I estimate $95 each per rear rotor and say $85 for rear pads and 1.5 hours labor @ $75/hr. Hence, $388 plus shop supplies and tax. Say, $425 total. So I guess the stealer is pretty close to this estimate. But I say these prices are way to high for me to pay. (In your case the stealer is way high)

Learn to do the work yourself or buy the parts cheaply, but with quality and go to an independent or lastly take the parts to the dealer and pay labor.

OBTW, I do give the dealer some of my business. Mainly, when I don't care to do certain work. I can do the basics and all service type stuff. I don't mind paying the dealer for work, especially since he gives me a free loaner car. That's worth alot to me, since my M3 is the only car I have.
Also, don't forget to ask for your BMWCCA discount for the parts and sometimes labor. You can get 10-15% off. I assume everyone on this site is a BMWCCA member, if not they should join.

The following is a Q&A from a previous post asking about the cost of a f&r complete "brake job":

1) I'm being quoted close to $1000 at a BMW dealership. Is the standard?

Answer: From the typical stealer - yes. The rears were quoted by a dealer in the below post for about low $400s. The front rotors are more $ then the rears and then add f/r sensors (about $15 from dealer, $10 mail order) and then bleeding/flushing brake fluid. Therefore, I can see that it would add up to $950-1000 from the typical "stealer".

2) Are there places that it can be done cheaper?

Answer: Yes - Go to an independent. Buy your parts mail order from anyone of the good suppliers available. Go to the BMWCCA website and check out the links. Many good vendors available. Or mail order from Nick Alexander BMW in LA. Take the parts to an independent mechanic or the dealer. They will do the labor and you save $$$ on parts. Or better yet, learn how to do it yourself - very easy to do.

3) I've been told that the rotors can't be turned/shaved/straightened. Are they trying to sell me more stuff or do you generally replace the entire brake system at one time?

Answer: From my past experience and with 37k miles on your car, your rotors are TOAST! I bet they have worn at or below minimum thickness. Get new rotors for your situation. Yes rotors can be turned/trued as long as they are within specifications (front new is 28mm, min. is 26.4mm). The only time I turn them is when they are fairly new and need to be cleaned up, do to extensive track time. Sometimes after hard track use, spiral grooves or slight warpage occurs that can sometimes be corrected with turning the rotors on a lathe. I have two Euro front rotors I am getting turned today, after some previous track use ($7 each at local brake shop).

Feedback on whether to get Michlin Pilot Sports: Michelin Pilot Sports are great tires, but not for me. I think the supply has been unreliable in the past, not sure of now and future? Michelin pissed me off when I could not get rears when mine were worn. Had to buy four new tires. Went with Bridgestone S02s. Kinda glad, I overall like the S02s better and a little cheaper. Also, I heard many good things about Yok AVS Sports, and they are much cheaper. Depends on your requirements. I want a good handling dry, but need a very good wet tire - S02s are perfect. I might go next with Dunlop 9000 hydromax, since they have twice the wear rating. I only got 9k miles on the rears from my S02s. I am on my second set of rears and first set of fronts.

Hope this helps.

Brad Devendorf
1997 M3 Coupe





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