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Thanks Jay...I'm thinking stock parts as well! (archive)

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Posted by Scott Snider on September 14, 2001 at 13:09:03:

In Reply to: I just replaced my clutch at 40K. Someone before> posted by LUNI2NZ on September 14, 2001 at 13:03:12:


This morning on my way to work, all of a sudden I noticed a strange clutch pedal neutral, the clutch pushes in and rises normally, no loss of force needed to push it in, no problem with the pedal coming back out, but during shifting, the clutch now catches nearly against the floor and runs out of contact in a very short span from the floor up...leaving about 3/4 of the pedal travel empty of purpose! I'm thinking because she has 96K miles, and because the pedal pushes in and rises back up with no problem that it must be my clutch is about gone.....

Would everyone -who's gone through the death of their clutch- agree?

Scott Snider
95 dakar M3/2 "Gretchen"
ECIS CAIS w/ Euro HFM & AA chip

me must have really abused it. It wouldn't surprise me that yours is gone at 96K, but they usually get bad gradually. Unless the clutch disk has disintegrated. I'd check out the clutch operating components as best I could before pulling the tranny. Problem is, you can't really check the clutch fork, pivot pin, or throwout bearing without pulling the tranny. Changed your brake fluid lately? May be air in the line to the clutch slave. Is clutch slave connected tightly to tranny?

As far as aluminum flywheels, they are beneficial for racing. Not much gain for daily driver unless you're running it flat out a lot. They do have a rattle, vibration at low RPMs. I have also read of folks having idle problems because the revs drop so fast. Unless your faced with replacing a flywheel and the cost is similar, I'd stick with the dualmass stocker.

I bought a Sachs OEM kit from Zygmunt for $232, free shipping. Their price on the Sachs Sport clutch was around $600-700, I think. They had the lowest prices I could find. If you have the dealer do a clutch, it'll be $900+.

Good luck - Jay

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