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In Reply to: Thanks! I'll give it a shot (eom) posted by Tnunnery on April 10, 2000 at 12:49:49:

I installed a cotter pin using the same idea with 2 zip ties and it is easily obtained at your local hardware or auto parts store for about 10 cents each. (you will want one that is about 1.5 inches long) I don't even know what a Wireform, from steel wire (3/32" welding rod or similar) is.
I've had it on for about a week and have slammed door shut (on accident) and used my keyless entry several times. Upon inspection yesterday, all was snug & secure.
-Mikeyz
: : The trim panel is easy to remove. Two screws are under button caps, uner the handle. Otherwise the rest of the panel is held with conventional push-in panel fasteners. I pulled the bottom loose first, then the top edge, where I could lift the panel to get some visibility. No wires are anything is connected between the trim panel and the hatch, so you can set it aside.
: :
: : : What is the best way to get to the guts of the latch assembly? I looked at the rear inside door trim but wasn't sure where to start removing it. Thanks!
: : : Tnunnery
: : : '00 M coupe
: : : Columbia, SC
: : : (tie-wraps at the ready)
: : : : For the push-button operation, when the car is unlocked, a small pull-rod is activated froma plastic bell crank arm. The retaining impression on the plastic crank arm is too small, and weak. When it snaps off, the pull-rod falls out of the crank arm, and the hatch won't open.
: : : : I pulled off the rear inside door trim, fabricated a retainer for the pull-ron from 3/32" steel welding wire and two zip ties. Looking at the construction, I would guess that any dealer repair won't last, as they will just install a new plastic arm, which is not a great design.
: : : : 2000 M coupe Imola Red