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Stereo install pics for those interested. (archive)

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Posted by Ox///M on March 05, 2001 at 17:09:01:

Ok here it goes: For $300 this can be yours!

Note: I already had an old Punch 4040 Amp, a friend did the same install with a Punch 120 that cost ~$140.

Also, I've had all sorts of systems in cars, this one I very much like for the low cost, the ease of install, and the fact that the stock radio is now, um, as it should be from the factory. In other words, I'm very happy. NOTE Age:24 M

I posted this info in the past, here is what I said.

I found a solution that you may want to consider.

What I have done is installed a JL Audio 8.2 Microsub in the rear space. I used a punch 4040 amp and placed it in the CD-Changer placeholder.
The microsub is held in place by they new style velcro, and is completly stealth. All you have to do to get your room back is disconnect the bannana plugs from the sub, coil up the speaker wire and place the speaker wire back into the cubby where the amp is.
You then reattach the plastic panel and viola, you can't even tell what was there.

This solution took us 4 hours on the first car, and 1 hour on the second car (mine).

What you do is T-Tap into the high level outputs from the deck, take that to a line leveler or the high level inputs on your amp, BTW the new rockford punch 120a is perfect for this. hook up your amp to your battery. This takes very little time, a bit of wire from
radio shack, a in-line fuse, and a bit of routing of the cable under the trunk panels. Then hook up your sub.. It's such a simple and worthwhile improvement. In truth.. the stereo is not bad.. could use alot more mid-range.. but for $350 you can have a very very
nice setup.

BTW, you can get the JLAudio sub from Auto Sound of Virginia. (804) 282-3152 Ask for Shawn.. (i think that's his name) He will sell it to you for no more than $225-$240 I'm sure. Tell him that the guy with the green Mcoupe sent you.

I'll find a digital camera and take some pictures when I can.


I tapped into these wires from the deck before the amp.

Connector J2, 26-pins

Pin 1 RR - INput blue/gray
Pin 2 RR + INput blue/purple
Pin 3 LR + INput blue/black
Pin 4 LR - INput yellow/brown

J1 has the obvious ground, remote on, and 12V wires. You will only need to tap into the remote on here. As you run a seperate cable to the new amp from the bat, and you ground to a point in the rear of the car.

So, here are the pictures. Let me know if you have questions.

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